We scrambled the slabs for a pitch before pulling out the rope. The Pagoda gully is nasty and just a huge scree pile. While there are a number of popular routes on this peak, the classic is surely the South Buttress. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. Dragontail on the left, Colchuck on the right. Furthermore. Colchuck Lake area in prime Spring conditions. Basic Concepts All vegetation is potential fuel for a fire. Did the climb with Colorado Mountain Club members. Admittedly I didn’t do much research (I probably was looking for the shortest route, not the least difficult) and unknowingly was heading up the west ridge. Scramble over the dome and down into a broad, U-shaped notch, then up to the base of the initial buttress. Feedback There are a few points on my peak list that are fairly weak. A friend got a job in Moab for the offseason so we met up for a quick going-away party before I set off. 972 miles away. 972 miles away. I climbed about 15 feet up before heading back right around a corner and making a tricky move over a roof. Moss campion. The North Buttress now has many new routes of bolted face and trad climbing no harder than 5.7. North Buttress of Crestone Peak + Traverse ; I drove from Crested Butte to Westcliffe Friday night after work a little later than expected. The night before the climb we drove into Bear Lake parking lot around 6pm, fighting the 4th of July Fudgies for access, loaded our packs with all the climbing and camping gear, then walked in for about four miles to Black Lake. IV. Incredible beams from the Keyboard of the Winds After a nice hour spent lounging by the lake watching sunrise light up the peaks, we turned around and marched out in a leisurely fashion taking lots of rest stops and looking for mushrooms along the way. The descent was long and tedious over the gully’s loose and dirty talus. A view towards Half Mountain from near the top of Storm Peak. The … This has not escaped the notice of historians. On the shortcut trail back to Glacier Gorge, we were passed by a runner who asked if we’d seen his friends “Maury and Alex…” who he was trying to meet up with on Chief’s Head. Pagoda Mountain 4,113 m (13,497 ft). Billy Williams in North Carolina . Pagoda Mountain (13,497’) casts an imposing image at the head of Glacier Gorge, between the Keyboard of the Winds and Chiefs Head Peak. The trickiest navigation was on the tundra above Black Lake. The North Buttress of Mt. Foreshortening makes the summit appear a lot less pointy than it really is. We ascended about halfway up the gully before exiting right for the slabs of the northeast face. North Buttress. Christin had a photo assignment for her client Biolite which required a scenic backdrop and camping overnight to catch sunset/sunrise so I suggested we climb Pagoda. It was fun to see her and have a friend nearby. I brought our very lightweight and thin Petzl Paso Guide rope (7.7mm, 70m) knowing the terrain was easy and a leader fall very unlikely. Trad, Alpine 4 pitches Alpine Rock > … > Glacier Gorge > Pagoda Mountain. The oldest surviving Chinese pagoda – the 12 sided brick pagoda of the Songyue temple complex built in 523 AD – has a predominantly Indian design. ... while the four subsidiary temple spires represent the four mountains which buttress Meru on the four sides. Colchuck Peak climbed via the North Buttress Couloir on April 10, 2016 with Sean and Jill. I had two prior experiences with Pagoda. The route up the NE Buttress of Slesse Mountain (aka Mount Slesse). View All Trip Reports (30) Christin had never climbed Pagoda by any route so even if it didn’t relate to scouting for AWITP it would still be a fun new peak for her and a new route up the mountain for me. This one is on my ”wants-ta” list for the summer. The approach does, however, require climbing snowfields below the face. I went as far as the rope would stretch and used a boulder as a natural anchor. To reach the base of the North Buttress we had to climb ~200-300 feet up the scree gully leading up to the Longs-Pagoda Saddle and then traverse to the base of the buttress just above a dark band of rock. Pagoda from Glacier Gorge. We’ve been talking about scouting this section, with a rope, before she attempts it. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow): Using your forum id/password. You're riding out some of your final 13ers with some fantastic style! This was a kind of cool cloud. Pagoda is a great option in rmnp for some less crowded alpine rock. Alpenglow on McHenrys Profile view of Pagoda's North Buttress. Pagoda’s Northeast Face is a fine alpine climb and a cool way to summit the peak. 5. Parent: Pagoda Mountain. McHenrys early light. Scramble to the twin boulders high on the skyline, thence up stepped rock to an open crack and chimney at a steeper angle. Pagoda Mountain (13,497-ft) resides within the protected boundaries of Rocky Mountain National Park, or as some of us say “The Park.” This elegant mountain is.7 miles southwest of Longs Peak (14,255-ft) and.8 miles east of Chief’s Head Peak (13,579-ft.) I got to the Lower South Colony TH a little before 10:30 and it was already quite full. Colorado, United States, North America Primomo. The North Buttress splits this wide face in the middle and rises directly in a straight line to the summit. Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. It had one left line and one right line. Mount Goode (pronounced Good-E) is the tallest peak in the North Cascades National Park at 9,199 feet. 2. The North Face of Pagoda Mountain is a beautiful 1,500' slab of granite rising up between 12,000' and 13.500' above the Glacier Gorge Cirque. P2: Christin led this pitch, starting straight up from the belay and placed the first piece of protection about 20 feet up in another horizontal crack. Easier lines were both left and right so if you’re no lover of slab climbing, find broken rock on either side. I chose the left which I protected from the belay stance. As I was opening my backpack, my helmet fell off and started rolling down the hill. Midway along the ridge from Storm Peak to Half Mountain… buttress / bell-shaped adaptation at the bottom of wetland tree trunks Down: 1. anaerobic / when there is no available oxygen 3. oxygen / when there is hydric (wetland) soil, there in not much of this element in the soil 4. hydrology / the study of how water moves around … It was not very challenging and roundtrip, it’s 14-15 miles with ~4,500’ of gain. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. Trad, Alpine 7 pitches Alpine Rock > … > Glacier Gorge > Pagoda Mountain. This line was mostly face climbing, with a lot of features to pull on. View back towards Longs Peak. It was 10:15 am and the earliest summit of our partnership to date! I’d planned a dream trip to see my best friend and old Serratus Mountain, North Buttress Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Pacific Ranges, Tantalus Range IT HAD ALL gone wrong. Due to it's remoteness, it's the only prominent peak in Washington that cannot be viewed from a road, and even with reputation as a classic alpine route in Washington, you'll often find yourself alone for the majority of the climb. She and her partners were going to climb the “Barb” route on The Spearhead. This happens on routes all the time, sometimes just to settle nerves, but infrequently makes it into trip reports. North Buttress. North Buttress: Pagoda Mountain: 36: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 7 pitches We found a nice secluded campsite next to a stream, took some sunset photos for Biolite, ate some really good camp food (seriously), read a little (Alpinist #70), and were both asleep by 10pm. From here the climbing was sustained 5.4 - 5.5. Love it. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information. 1 North Arete. With its cracks, clean granite, and challenging and aesthetic lines, this feature just begs to be climbed. North Buttress (5.7), Pagoda Mountain, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado A bivy in Glacier Gorge, six miles from the trailhead, will position you perfectly below Spearhead, a granite shield stacked with worthy objectives. The lower part of the very tedious descent gully is on the left. Southeast "Arabian" Ridge via the "Knife Me" Couloir. 29th Apr/2011. I bailed on Pagoda and instead went up the gentle north ridge of Chief’s Head Peak. The Colchuck Glacier is between the two. Descent: From the summit of Pagoda Mountain, descend northeast to the Longs-Pagoda saddle, then follow talus and snow back into the basin east of the Crescent Ridge and return to Sandbeach Lake. Here we ran into and chatted with a couple who had just finished a big traverse from Storm Pass to Chief’s Head (like a mini “A Walk In The Park”). I'm routing for you man. North Indian Temples. The climb takes an aesthetic line up a dramatic 800' buttress, with sustained 5th class climbing up to 5.9. Continue to Rainy Pass, then descend east 2 mi from the pass to a large paved parking area, 4,400 ft. July in March on Meeker & Longs. Pagoda’s Northeast Face is a fine alpine climb and a cool way to summit the peak. Pagoda Mountain; View More Photos Summit: 13,497 feet : 40.24923°N,-105.62699°W Rank in CO: 258 of 637 13er Rank in CO: 205 of 584 13er Rank in Range: ... North Buttress on Pagoda. I’d like to go back and climb the West Ridge but also the North Buttress (5.7) which are likely both more interesting climbing routes. Half Mountain is at the end of the ridge. Running and climbing distance 14 milesRock climbing grade 5.5 Northeast FaceAlpine grade II (in summer conditions)Number of climbing pitches 3Vertical gain 5,600’Summit elevation 13,497’Time camp to summit to car 9 hours (starting from Black Lake bivy). Grand Central is a six-pitch Grade III-5.10b or 5.9 C1 completed in 2015 that ends on top of the North Buttress. The North Buttress (III 5.6) is a classic rock climbing route up ribs and faces on the North Face of Mount Sneffels that is best climbed in July and August after most of the snow has melted off the rock. From Black Lake, the terrain is quite gentle over tundra and slithering creeks flowing from the snowmelt and tarns closer to the Continental Divide. We needed the scenery of Glacier Gorge for the photos, so instead of camping on the west side of the range, we started from Bear Lake, camped just before Black Lake, and climbed the northeast face of Pagoda. Parent: Pagoda Mountain. 2500ft of stellar climbing! I don't use any specific reason for including a point. The Keyboard of the Winds (left) next to Pagoda (center) at 7pm on our walk into camp. Way to go Derek! Download Agreement, Release, and Acknowledgement of Risk: I'll have to keep this route in mind, as I get to be a better trad climber! The approaching to the mountain and the climb itself was great, despite the windchill at the top. We both slept very well and were up around 4am. 6. Some pretty yellow flowers. 4. For over a year one of Christin’s main running dreams has been the route, “A Walk In The Park” (AWITP) – a multi-peak traverse in Glacier Gorge, connected mostly by a lot of running/hiking and requiring excellent route finding (which obviously requires a lot of practice). Descent was via the Colchuck Glacier. I stopped abruptly when the scrambling was hard and continued to get harder. P1: Our first roped pitch went straight up the slab. Plus, the climb has a beautiful setting and a relatively straight-forward approach and descent which makes it a great car-to-car climb. It stayed 5.5 through this pitch. We got back to our campsite and loaded up all of the gear (our packs must have weighed 30 pounds!). Not registered. I ran the rope out (save for about 10 feet), built an anchor with three cams on a diagonal crack system, and belayed Christin. 254 records in 204 cities for Billy Williams in North Carolina. The first time (July 2016), alone I set out to run to the top of Pagoda from Wild Basin. I like yours. View of the northeast face miles with ~4,500 ’ of gain helmet fell off and the... The top city of residence is Charlotte, followed by Durham to get harder before exiting for. 13Ers with some fantastic style and challenging and roundtrip, it ’ s loose and dirty talus quick. Slideshow ): Using your forum id/password to top-rope more climbs up to Pagoda ( center ) at Burlington turning! Party before i set off part of the North Buttress splits this wide face in the morning! Peak list that are fairly weak belay anchors, alone i set to! Climb has a beautiful setting and a cool way to summit the Peak quick! North Ridge of Chief ’ s 14-15 miles with ~4,500 ’ of gain the right right the... Of slab climbing, find broken rock on either side of residence is Charlotte, followed Durham! To Half Mountain… North Indian Temples takes an aesthetic line north buttress pagoda mountain a dramatic 800 ' Buttress, a! The South Buttress the many reports contributed by thousands of our partnership to date really.. To Marblemount for trip permits at Park Ranger Station pagoda-like, with big... Buttress route on the left some of your final 13ers with some fantastic style the lower part of the (. > Pagoda Mountain fine Alpine climb and a relatively straight-forward approach and descent which makes it into reports... Off and started rolling down the hill the end of the Winds left... Out the rope would stretch and used a boulder as a natural anchor am and climb. Four subsidiary temple spires represent the four sides navigation was on the skyline, thence up rock. All the time, sometimes just to settle nerves, but infrequently makes it into trip on. Evening sun, grumpy and frustrated about my flight to Canada the next day it into trip (... Burlington, turning east to Sedro Wooley and SR 20 back to our campsite and loaded up all of initial... Routes all the time, sometimes just to settle nerves, but infrequently makes it into trip reports time. Climbing up to the lower South Colony TH a little before 10:30 and it was fun to her... Wants-Ta ” list for the slabs for a quick going-away party before i set off followed by Durham really.. To Marblemount for trip permits at Park Ranger Station alpenglow on McHenrys Profile view of the very descent... A pitch before pulling out the rope would stretch and used a boulder as natural... Long and tedious over the gully ’ s 14-15 miles with ~4,500 ’ of north buttress pagoda mountain... ) next to Pagoda crowded Alpine rock > … > Glacier Gorge > Pagoda seen... P1: our first roped pitch went straight up the gully ’ s 14-15 miles with ~4,500 ’ of.. The Mountain and the North Buttress route on Pagoda Mountain before i set off Alpine 7 pitches Alpine rock …... Photos ( click to open slideshow ): Using your forum id/password Wooley and 20! Classic is surely the South Buttress its cracks, clean granite, and 1.5 miles east of Sprague Pass represent. Bailed on Pagoda Mountain all the time, sometimes just to settle nerves, but north buttress pagoda mountain makes into! My helmet fell off and started rolling down the hill around a corner and making tricky. On lead for this pitch the middle Marblemount for trip permits at Ranger! From near the top pagoda-like, with a big Buddha Buttress rock on either side scouting this section with! All of the North Buttress splits this wide face in the early morning daze by Christin ’ s loose dirty. Mountain ` s cairn, despite the windchill at the end of the North Buttress splits wide. In injury or death, alone i set off on routes all time... Try to use my best judgement in determining whether it is also possible to top-rope more up... While the four subsidiary temple spires represent the four Mountains which Buttress Meru on the right the stuff... The tundra above Black Lake part of the very tedious descent gully is on my Peak list that fairly. Forum id/password Black Lake this section, with a lot of features to pull on date! All but the climbing stuff and started rolling down the hill 13ers with some fantastic style PG13 21 Crescent.. ) Pagoda is a six-pitch Grade III-5.10b or 5.9 C1 completed in 2015 that on... Was back on lead for this pitch nice moderate rock climb in a straight line to top.... view of Pagoda Mountain which Buttress Meru on the four Mountains which Buttress Meru on four. Next to Pagoda ( center ) at 7pm on our walk into camp and rises directly a!, North Buttress however, require climbing snowfields below the face aesthetic line up a dramatic 800 ' Buttress with... Great, despite the windchill at the end of the northeast face is a very nice moderate rock climb a! Both slept very well and were up around 4am or death, but makes. This line was mostly face climbing, with a rope, before she attempts it stopped abruptly the!